Alex & Madie — Travel Blog
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Stopovers in Taipei & Singapore

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Raohe Street night market scenes and colors.

Raohe Street night market scenes and colors.

These two small cities have little alike and are not even close on the map. But on our way out of Japan, we decided on five days of hopping from Tokyo to Taipei, to Singapore and finally Yangon, Myanmar. We loved every minute of Japan, and know all too well that the journey back to real backpacking will be difficult. Taipei and Singapore to the rescue (we hope).

We couldn’t get enough milk tea. 

We couldn’t get enough milk tea. 

Taipei

We land in Taipei, quickly taken over by the flair of the new country. How to describe Taipei? For the short version, take China, remove communism and teach English to all, add two ounces of Korea, and one and a half of Japan. Taipei is known for excellent food all around, shopping more than you could ever wish for, and gritty night markets that smell of stinky tofu, blood cakes, and all things cooked over fire. We opt for the food version of Taipei, feeling a little out of place when we pass by the many shops. Noise is up a few decibels; there’s no complicated subway out of the airport, and poverty shows at the train station.

We arrive at Beimen Poshtel near the main station and immediately scavenge for milk tea - the national drink. Lots of rain and wind greet us on the first day; we’re in the midst of typhoon season. A quick nap at the hotel and we’re out to the Raohe Street night market. An inquisitive temple greets us at the front, but we’re here for one thing only: the food. In the span of an hour, we’ll eat juicy pork buns, XiaoMao dumplings, stinky tofu, XiaoLongBao dumplings, chocolate and custard mini pancakes - and will taste everything offered. A stuffed belly puts us to bed.

Taipei has about a dozen night markets, so it was hard to pick just one. We heard Raohe was smaller and had a more local feel than Shilin, so we headed across town to do what we came to Taiwan to do: Eat XiaoLongBao, pork pepper sesame buns, stinky …

Taipei has about a dozen night markets, so it was hard to pick just one. We heard Raohe was smaller and had a more local feel than Shilin, so we headed across town to do what we came to Taiwan to do: Eat XiaoLongBao, pork pepper sesame buns, stinky tofu, and more. (And drink as many bubble teas as possible.)

Our second day in the city, after a large breakfast at the hostel (when is the last time I made eggs?) - we head over to Din Tai Fung, the successful franchise now found worldwide. Victor, a photographer friend of Madie who lives in Taipei, assures us it’s still better here. And it is. XiaoLongBao dumplings, sweet potato greens, dumplings in hot sauces, and those fried in a pan - with pork fried rice of course. A little burp later, we’re unsuccessful in finding Little Mermaid, Madie’s new craze since Japan, but stumble upon a French bakery, with a whole chicken baked in a loaf bread. We’ll settle for a classic croissant and go find another milk tea. We meet Victor at night for beef noodle soup, another Taiwanese tradition, spicy pork intestine stuffed with rice, and shaved ice with all the toppings.

Din Tai Fung’s XiaoLongBao dumplings in the making.

Din Tai Fung’s XiaoLongBao dumplings in the making.

Happy and full after dinner with Victor, who showed us where the locals eat!

Happy and full after dinner with Victor, who showed us where the locals eat!

The typhoon comes, and with it we fall back below ground to walk to our hotel, getting lost in the underground. There are incredible subterranean metro malls all over Taipei. We could walk for miles without ever seeing the sun, spending money on the latest fashion. The tourists are here in numbers, from Korea, Japan, and China, to shop. The rest of the island is however seldom visited, and in our short time here, we will not have time for more. Instead, we drink one last milk tea, as we carefully track the weather and hope for no delay for our flight to Singapore. 

Or maybe we should have had a little delay. The take off is the roughest we’ve experienced, as we fly around the typhoon hitting the island, and fall in tall air pockets making a group of ladies scream (and me, piss myself a little). The Taiwanese are used to typhoons, this one is no exception. We make it, four hours flying to Singapore, and are in for another culture shock.

We’ve never seen a place so modern, and with so many efforts in keeping it clean and green. 

We’ve never seen a place so modern, and with so many efforts in keeping it clean and green. 

Inside the cool Cloud Forest biodome, a mere 137 kilometers from the equator.

Inside the cool Cloud Forest biodome, a mere 137 kilometers from the equator.

Singapore

How to describe Singapore? Take a small island on the most southern point in Malaysia, only 137 kilometers north the equator, and create a tax haven. Add strong dashes of Malay, Indian, and Korean - and a ton of money, as much as you can get your hands on, then go ask Mark Zuckerberg and Bill Gates for more. You’ll get a sort of Asian Monaco, without the casinos. The city is the cleanest in the world (chewing gum not allowed), has the largest inequality gap, and also the highest approval by its population - 90% of them can afford a home on the island. The metro stations will quickly tell you all the languages spoken here - Chinese, Malay, Indian, Korean - but the official language is in fact, English. On a single street block, we were able to visit a mosque, a Hindu temple, and a Buddhist temple.

Downtown is an incredible succession of buildings all more daring and beautiful than the other - one with multiple levels of gardens encased into the facade - the super tree grove at Gardens By The Bay; the famous Marina Bay Sands and its large boat with an infinity pool on top; the art and science museum, modeled after a blooming flower; and two soccer stadiums, one floating on water, the other with a roof opening at the top. Singapore does not disappoint with amazing architecture. The F1 Grand Prix is only a few days away, and most streets are already closed. 

The super grove of solar-powered super trees.

The super grove of solar-powered super trees.

We eat our coconut snack (longing for Hong Kong’s) and make it to the top of the giant boat building, carefully walking to the side (at least I am). Next we visit the Gardens by the Bay and its super trees, of course with another milk tea, and visit the indoor rainforest - an incredible construction only Singapore can pull off. I miss the real rainforest dearly - we feel out of our element in a large, rich city. We’re only an hour away from Bukit Lawang after all.

But Singapore also knows cheap and delicious food. We head over to Chinatown and attempt to eat at the cheapest Michelin star in the world, a mere 2.5 Singapore Dollars for a chicken meal that won a precious star. Unfortunately, at 4:45 pm, we’re already too late and all the chicken is gone. We’ll settle for second best soya chicken of the eatery. A couple juice drinks later, we head back to our capsule and settle in our bed, exhausted from plane rides and food. Tomorrow at the wee hours, we head to Myanmar, an all too different place, a largely under-developed country with civil war, and another culture shock.


Links

  • Taipei is the main city in the island of Taiwan. It has many sights to offer, including historical buildings - but as you saw, we invested our time in the delicious food!
    • Taipei has an excellent subway system, including endless malls if that’s your cup of (milk) tea.
    • Night markets are a craze in Taipei and should not be missed. We decided on the Raohe Street Market, for its reputation to be more local than Shilin.
    • Din Tai Fung restaurants are all over the world now, and for a good reason!
    • Beef noodle soup is a local specialty. We had ours at Yong Kang Beef Noodles, thanks to our friend Victor. Shaved ice is the other great specialty for dessert! Close to our previous spot is 政江號傳統小吃店 (don’t ask).
  • Singapore is greatest in its downtown and in Marina Bay, where you can gaze upwards for hours at buildings and architecture. Not to be missed:
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Japan - Our Route & Numbers

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Alex & Madie’s travel route in Japan.

Alex & Madie’s travel route in Japan.

Numbers from Japan

  • Days in Japan: 13 days
  • Our daily average cost for food per person: ¥4000 ≈ $40.00 (including two very nice meals and daily snacks & dessert) 
  • Cost of a 1.5L water: Free! We drank tap throughout the trip!
  • Cost of a medium coffee: ¥270 ≈ $2.70
  • Cost of a vending machine coffee: ¥100 ≈ $1.00
  • Cost of a 550mL beer: ¥50 ≈ $5.00
  • Cost of a bowl of ramen or soba: ¥800 ≈ $8.00
  • Cost of a matcha ice cream cone: ¥250 ≈ $2.50
     
  • Total matcha ice cream cones eaten: 7
  • Total Hida milk puddings eaten: 4 in two days
     
  • Total time on an airplane: 2 hours and 20 minutes
  • Total time on a train: 11 hours and 5 minutes
     

How We Got Around

Alex & Madie’s mode of transportation in Japan.

Alex & Madie’s mode of transportation in Japan.

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Japan - Takayama to Tokyo

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We couldn’t imagine seeing these beautiful gasshō houses any other way - set in bucolic fields of green; but Shirakawa-go is actually one of the snowiest places in Japan, the reason for thick straw roofs, and its popularity during wintertime.

We couldn’t imagine seeing these beautiful gasshō houses any other way - set in bucolic fields of green; but Shirakawa-go is actually one of the snowiest places in Japan, the reason for thick straw roofs, and its popularity during wintertime.

Gate 문 - Howl’s Moving Castle Theme (Remix)

After realizing the snow monkeys near Nagano will not greet us while bathing lazily in the onsen this time of year, we opt for another magical location of Japan: Takayama, in the Gifu prefecture. It seems we’re attracted to mountains in all countries, perhaps foretelling where we’ll end up.

Quaint street scenes in Takayama, Japan.

Quaint street scenes in Takayama, Japan.

Both of us wanted to experience a traditional ryokan (old school Japanese inn), so we were happy to find one in the small mountain town of Takayama. Complete with tatami mats, sliding doors, yukata robes, and slippers, this may have been our most co…

Both of us wanted to experience a traditional ryokan (old school Japanese inn), so we were happy to find one in the small mountain town of Takayama. Complete with tatami mats, sliding doors, yukata robes, and slippers, this may have been our most comfortable accommodation yet - even with the public onsen baths.

Takayama

It’s another train from Kyoto, on a ride out of a Murakami book, maybe Kafka On The Shore. Rain finally breaks - it’s typhoon season after all - and we pass quiet suburbs that are slowly replaced by forests, rivers, and mountains. We munch on a matcha cake and enter the Japanese Alps, or Nihon Arupusu. (Yes, Arupusu is the phonetic version of Alps in Japanese.)

We arrive in the small town of Takayama and are lucky to stay in a traditional ryokan, a Japanese guest house with an onsen, a public bath for the guests (except if you have a tattoo - to prevent the yakuza from revealing themselves). My name is written on a long black plank at the entrance, alongside those of other tourists. Leaving our shoes at the entrance, we check in and are shown our room, immediately being transported to a different time: Japan in the 70s, with dark brown furniture, leather chairs, and futons on tatami mats. We head shyly to the onsen for a shower, one for men, the other for women, somehow relieved to find it empty.

Less than an hour from Takayama in the heart of the Japanese Alps, is a magical place straight out of a storybook. The village of Shirakawa-go is at the base of a mountain range, along a river, and is a patchwork of thatched roofed farmhouses and rice fields in every shade of green.

A short walk in town takes us to a cozy hole in the wall, famous for its curry. We sit at a low table, my leg falling asleep rapidly; the restaurant is a busy decor of wooden everything, cups and bowls, and a few Domo dolls above the bar for good luck. Jamiroquai plays the beats. Full of curry, we still manage to find room for the yogurt of the day. The Hida province is famous for its cows (almost as much as Kobe), but especially its milk - it’s the first time we are entranced by a milk pudding.

After a simple breakfast at the nearby cafe, we take an hour bus ride to Shirakawa-go, a UNESCO World Heritage site, a place right out of the old RPGs from my youth. We’ll walk aimlessly for a few hours amongst fields and traditional houses called gassho, built specifically to fend off the snow in the winter (合掌 - means “hands together,” as in a prayer). Even the music reminds me of old video games, as if we were resting at an inn for the night. The village is the most fitting illustration of charming and quaint - only the Italian tourist bus made it difficult. We’ll head back after a soba meal, a lip-licking cold noodle in a tart broth, and two soft-serve ice creams, one matcha and one Hida milk. We head back to Takayama and visit its old town, its own “Philosopher’s Path” and endless temples, each one more peaceful than the last. My Pokémon GO score is off the charts.

Tokyo

Another bullet train takes us to Tokyo, our final destination in Japan. After the microcosmos of Osaka, Kyoto, and Takayama, we’re reminded of everything else Japan is, a highly technological place, which used to be a model for the rest of the world in the 70s and 80s. Country of all things automatic, from the fancy robot toilet, the cigarette dispensers on dedicated smoking corners, the elevator parking garage, the many faucets and soap dispensers, and the ticket machine at the small restaurants. We rarely order from waiters, only handing them our tickets in exchange for our food.

A view of just a section of this vast city from the 52nd floor of the Roppongi Tower.

A view of just a section of this vast city from the 52nd floor of the Roppongi Tower.

But Tokyo excels at hiding its technology, underground, behind a wall, or inside the toilet. The city is all vertical, hiding whatever else on the next floor - dentists, dance studios, and food courts - roads have layers and airplanes reflect off the building windows. Manhole covers are uniquely decorated throughout town. Parks and temples are peaceful, quiet, except for the many signs for Pokémon GO players to get on their way. Here, everyone plays, from the business man to the sweet grandma. The city is amazingly quiet - we didn’t hear a single horn in one of the busiest cities in the world. The only noise pollution comes from the slot machines and arcades spread throughout the city, the pachinkos. We eat a hearty brunch in the Roppongi Tower, at a Gastropub rivaling San Francisco’s.

Covered colored cones and cars. Tokyo is full of rhythm.

Covered colored cones and cars. Tokyo is full of rhythm.

Entering the heart of Harajuku.

Entering the heart of Harajuku.

Tokyo also shows us its incredibly rich culture: the groups of old people practicing tai chi in the morning; the business suits running to their subway; the punk kids dressed in cosplay, with pink, blue, or purple hair on the streets of Harajuku; our first concert in a while, a girl DJ at the entrance of a mall; the pick-your-favorite-animal cafes, we choose bunnies and play with them for an hour to the voice of the Japanese girl exclaiming, “Kawaiiiii!” We do not look for the famed adult stores but know they’re around from the stickers taped on traffic light poles.

From the southern part of Japan, Hakata-style ramen is made with a rich pork-bone broth, thin noodles, chashu, garlic, green onions, and an egg (if you want it). The best part is choosing exactly how you want your bowl of soup: depth of broth, firmness of noodles, amount of toppings, and spice level. For anyone going to Tokyo, stop by Ichiran. Such a fun experience and the most comforting bowl of ramen we’ve had in years.

A subway ride to the Mori Art Museum renews my love for space, manga and bande-dessinée, the French/Belgian version of comic books. There is a large crowd there, waiting two hours in line to get to the top of the building and view of the whole city. I hate buildings and crowds, and grow impatient with views. Instead, we rush to what we know best, food, this time looking for tonkotsu, a type of ramen Madie loves. We’re at Ichiran Ramen, seated in single booths divided by a wood panel. A small curtained window is in front of me, where a headless waiter delivers the best ramen I’ve ever had. In three days, we’ll wolf down ramen a few times, soba noodles, sushi, tonkatsu, and as many pastries, matcha ice creams, and yogurts as we can. We will even venture to the Tsukiji Market in the morning, a famous fish market where all the best sushi chefs go. An old man carves a tuna larger than a pig; we explore the market amongst fish heads, octopi, roe, and workers busy cleaning up the place. Ten in the morning is already late for the market, but it’s the best time for a snack of fresh sushi and beer.

The renowned Tsukiji Fish Market is nothing short of spectacular. It’s amazing that millions of dollars worth of seafood is sold in this warehouse on a daily basis, starting in the wee hours of the morning. Arriving late, we were able to watch a few…

The renowned Tsukiji Fish Market is nothing short of spectacular. It’s amazing that millions of dollars worth of seafood is sold in this warehouse on a daily basis, starting in the wee hours of the morning. Arriving late, we were able to watch a few remaining fish being butchered in peace, away from what would have been a buzzing Saturday auction.

It’s already time to leave Japan, and with it, a bit of our heart. We spent an incredible twelve days, wishing we had a lot more. We both know if there’s a place in Asia we could live, it would be here. But as quiet as things may seem on the outside, Japan is known for a difficult work culture - Karōshi (過労死) means “death by overwork.” But there is also a word seemingly invented for us: Kuidaore (食い倒れ), or “to eat oneself to bankruptcy.” It’s time for the next step. No regrets, only more adventures to come. 


Links

  • Takayama is a few hours away from Kyoto by JR train, and in a most scenic environment. It has much to offer, including a beautiful circuit of temples at the edge of the historic center.
    • Shirakawa-go is a UNESCO protected village near Takayama. It is easily visited in half a day with a local bus.
    • If you can afford it, the ryokan experience is a must-do in Japan, and was particularly fitting in Takayama. We stayed at the excellent Hodakaso Yamanoiori.
  • Need we say more about Tokyo?
    • Absolutely save one lunch or dinner or late night snack for Ichiran Ramen.
    • The Roppongi Tower has an incredible museum, the Mori Art Museum. Wait times for the scenic point are upwards of two hours, however.
    • The city is large but somehow doesn’t have as much to offer as Kyoto in terms of history and sights. Know what you want before planning to stay there too long. Kyoto is around three and half hours away by bullet train, Osaka is around four hours away.
    • If in season, you can catch a sumo match! Ask your hotel. Most of them have the info.
  • Unfortunately, we missed two places we regret most because we had not booked them early enough:
    • The Ghibli Museum requires reservations weeks in advance. We are both big fans of Miyazaki movies.
    • Dosanjin is famed for an incredible (and pretty) soba noodle dish, and also requires advance reservation.